Above the clouds of Wasdale

It’s been a long winter. On January 16th, Nirmal Purja claimed the first winter assent of K2. Meanwhile, we’ve all been under a stay at home order for the best part of four months. Now, I’m not saying that without the lockdown I’d have summited K2 this winter, but I had some good winter climbs planned. Instead, without mountains on the doorstep, we had to sit and watch perfect winter conditions come and go.

Last week, with the stay at home order finally lifted and after a four month absence, it was time to return to the Lakes. I checked MWIS, set my slack status to ‘Der Berg Ruft‘ and headed for the hills.

I wrote a couple of weeks ago about the dream of doing the Bob Graham round and this seemed like a perfect opportunity to reconnoitre part of the route. I’d planned an out and back covering Leg 3, the most punishing of the sections, before returning to the car via a handful of Wainwrights that were close at hand.

I parked up at Dunmail Raise and, with the clag down, the car was out of sight within a moment of starting. The climb out of the pass is short but steep – averaging a 30-40% gradient for the first 500m. The first two tops of the day, Steel Fell and Calf Crag, are taken in quick succession before a gradual climb up to Sergeant Man and High Raise.

With High Raise still shrouded in clag, I made a nav error. I descended way more than needed before course correcting to Thunacar Knott, then compounded this with a poor line up Harrison Stickle. Neither diversion cost me too much time but every error adds to the distance and ascent.

Visibility improved a little for the dash across to one of my favourites, Pike o’ Stickle – it’s one of the most picturesque fells and I love the easy little scramble up onto the summit. From there it’s a quick descent over Martcrag Moor. I consciously remembered going in up to my knees during the Langdale Horseshoe, only to repeat the feat again at the same spot this time. White socks may’ve been an optimistic approach to the day.

From here the terrain changes as you swing up onto Rossett Pike and start the long slog through the boulder field strewn crags onto Bowfell. The line was easy enough to follow even in the mist, but it’s hard work to gain the summit. I was relieved to make it with my morale intact. As I followed the ridge north to Esk Pike the clag finally lifted and I was left looking at the peaks of the Lake District poking up through the clouds. Mesmerising.

From there it was over to Great End and some time spent touring the boulders trying to decide where the actual summit was. I’m still unclear, so I made sure I visited all three potential candidates! What I did get is a great view – with Wasdale stretched out before me like a carpet of clouds and Great Gable towering through it all.

The views gave me the high that only the mountains can and, with the sun now beating down, a sublime sense of gratitude came over me. Every step and breath felt a privilege as I drifted across the almost deserted fell tops. I was reminded of Herzog’s gratitude on the slopes of Annapurna as all of my senses were awake and alive to the world.

“I was consciously grateful to the mountains for being so beautiful for me that day, and as awed by their silence as if I had been in church.”
– Maurice Herzog

Ill Crag and Broad Crag followed relatively quickly but it’s here where knowing the best lines is essential, it just slows progress to have to figure things out on the go. From there it’s a short kick up onto Scafell Pike. There was almost no one on the roof of England, but no time to loiter as I dropped straight off the other side down to Mickledore.

There just aren’t any easy ways between Scafell Pike and Sca Fell. Broad Stand didn’t look as bad as it’s reputation, but it was glistening wet and it’s a rock climb not a scramble so I decided against. Lord’s Rake looked tantalisingly clear of snow, but I’d not planned for it and wasn’t sure where to start the West Wall Traverse, which left Foxes Tarn.

I’m not great at scree descents so I took the steep drop cautiously. The path up the tarn came as a surprise, there’s a waterfall on the map with a path next to it but in the conditions the whole thing was waterfall. I started up the gully but it was flowing strongly and pretty slippy. While I could get up okay, I wasn’t sure it’d be much fun coming back down so Sca Fell would wait for another day. I sat down and ate a bar of chocolate before making my way back up to Mickledore and onto Scafell Pike for the second time.

I don’t like the taste of failure and it really affected my morale for a while as I slogged over the boulder field back up and across. I know it’s not important, but I should’ve studied the route more. Once I’d bypassed Great End and started to descend my mood improved. I detoured up Allen Crags as I wanted to tick it off the Wainwright list.

It felt good trotting down past Angle Tarn, behind the back of Rossett Pike, and across the pass. I was seven and a half hours in when I reached the pass but that’s when the good feeling left me and I had to start the slow and tiring grind up High Raise again. It’s only 300m of ascent and it’s not too steep but with 2,700m or so already in my legs I struggled, my head went down and my legs informed me they were done.

I looked across to Calf Crag and Steel Fell, knowing the car was beyond them. Going back via Greenup Edge or Sergeant Man would’ve made more sense but I foolishly decided I knew best and made straight for Ash Crags. While it was more direct, the time threading my way through the crags cost me and I never recovered my momentum. From there it was simple but slow over the last two fells and back down to the waiting car.

It was wonderful to be back in the Lakes, and I’m so thankful for the views and the opportunity to have them almost to myself. My time over to Scafell Pike was within what would be target Bob Graham pace – I’d be tireder on the day but then I’d also be fitter and have nav help to avoid some of the wasted time. But dishearteningly I remembered how much it hurts once your head drops and your legs pack in.

On the one hand, it would be a dream to run a Bob, but on the other it was a glimpse at the pain that training will put me through. It made me question whether I’d rather focus on the pleasure of racing across less unrelenting distances. It’s could also be that going from months of no fell running straight to a nine hour epic with loads of technical terrain was silly and I should have done something easier.

If training for a Bob means I risk losing the joy of running in the hills then the price is too high. I think I’ll focus more on having fun in the hills for a few runs and see how my fitness improves now we’re allowed out again before rushing into any decisions either way.

Der berg ruft, the hills call. And I’m glad to be free to answer them.

Gear: Salomon S/Lab Speed 2 shoes, Salomon ADV Skin 12 Set, Salomon Bonatti Race Waterproof, Suunto 9 Baro Watch